The New Hermès Nail Collection Is an Object Lesson in Craft and Color
28th Oct 2021
In early October, as a fabric-wrapped Arc de Triomphe grew soggy in the rain, guests at the spring 2022 Hermès show found themselves in a cocoon of relative sunshine. The artist Flora Moscovici had painted a series of panels, nearly 20 by 30 feet, with gradient tones of warm ochre and rust; they drifted slowly on a track, creating the feeling of a circular room within an airplane hangar on the outskirts of Paris. Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski, the women’s artistic director for Hermès, had brought in Moscovici after seeing Cité Polychrome, a recent plein-air project commissioned by the Ministry of Culture, which mounted the painter’s enormous abstract scrims onto building facades, refashioning quotidien surroundings into something of an opera set. What struck Vanhee-Cybulski—accustomed to working with the scale of the human body—was “her way of using color to transform public spaces in Paris,” she told i-D. The ripple effect played out on the runway as a sunflower-yellow leather trench, blousy pants in muted persimmon, and a loamy mushroom dress—emissaries of color soon to perk up gray streets.
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